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A Cup at a Time: Ethiopia’s Coffee Renaissance

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

It does not take long for a newcomer to the United States to discover that coffee is much more than a high-intensity jolt of caffeine. Connoisseurs speak of fruity notes and spicy undertones. Baristas are rated for the thickness of their crema and their fanciful foam latte art.

Coffee is to be savoured, like a fine glass of Burgundy.

In Ethiopia, the birthplace of coffee, people have always known that their fragrant beans brew a flavourful cup of coffee. Now, thanks to an ambitious project spearheaded by the Ethiopian government, our country’s reputation for producing the best coffee in the world is spreading far and fast.

Through partnerships with American leading coffee companies, Ethiopia is selling its specialty coffees in coffee shops and retail stores around the globe, introducing millions of consumers to our country’s distinctive coffee culture. Our hard-working farmers are selling their beans at record prices.

Just a few months ago, Regis Philbin, the popular television talk-show host, sang the praises of Ethiopian coffee on his “Live with Regis and Kelly” show. He even told his millions of viewers, in a slightly tongue-in-cheek manner, that he would like to be a spokesman for our brand!

Walk into the Starbucks coffee shop in Pasadena, CA, you would see a display of packaged coffee beans bearing a bright yellow label emblazoned with the words “Ethiopian Sidamo Birthplace of coffee.” At Caribou Coffee’s shops in Washington, D.C., customers are greeted by signs urging them to “Try the Gold Award-Winning Ethiopia Organic Yirgacheffe Dark Roast” coffee with hints of citrus, flowers and honey. It is worth every penny.

Caribou, the second largest coffeehouse operator in the United States after Starbucks, was given that highly-coveted gold award by a panel of judges of the Roasters Guild at the Specialty Coffee Association of America’s annual meeting last May in Minneapolis. Ethiopia was featured as the portrait country at that conference, giving us a rare opportunity to share our culture and coffee with the 8,000 participants from around the world. Ethiopia’s 60-member delegation was everywhere; from the opening ceremony, which featured traditional Ethiopian musicians and dancers, to the seminars and exhibition hall.

After decades sitting on the sidelines of the global economy, Ethiopia’s coffee industry is emerging as a force to be reckoned with. Our government has taken a pioneering initiative to protect and brand our unique coffee resources; the rewards are starting to trickle down to the people who deserve them the most, the farmers who toil from dawn to dusk growing the beans that make our country proud.

In January, the price of Ethiopia’s finest specialty coffees rose by as much as 16pc; exports more than doubled. Increased coffee revenues will help offset skyrocketing oil prices, a growing burden for Ethiopia and other oil-importing countries.

In November 2007, Howard Schultz, the chief executive officer of Starbucks, travelled to Addis and announced a major expansion of the partnership between his Seattle-based company and Ethiopia. That included a pledge to promote our coffee in Starbucks’ 13,000 stores and to open a farmer support centre in Ethiopia, the first of its kind in Africa.

To be sure, Ethiopia, like other countries, faces serious challenges, including food shortages caused by an unseasonable drought and spiralling global food prices. But in the country’s coffee-growing regions, there is a sense of optimism about the future. Farmers are replacing thatched roofs with tin. Their children are attending classes in schools financed by the increased coffee revenues.

Ethiopia’s changing fortunes are not simply the result of rising coffee prices. They are the direct outcome of a decision made some four years ago by Ethiopia’s leaders. They did foresee that they could not depend on volatile global commodity markets to provide for their people. The Government’s decision was triggered by the 2002 collapse of global coffee prices, which devastated the Ethiopian coffee industry.

In just one year, our country lost more than 200 million dollars in export revenues. The centrepiece of this effort was the Ethiopian Coffee Trademarking and Licensing Initiative, which uses intellectual property laws to ensure that a larger share of the revenues from the country’s specialty coffee brands filter down to the farmers.

We are also proud of the historic win-win deal we were able to negotiate with Starbucks, in which the Seattle-based coffee retailer became a partner in our licensing initiative and forged a long-term relationship that is helping our coffee industry build its reputation as a provider of premium beans.

In less than three years, Ethiopia has secured trademarks for its distinctive Sidamo, Harar and Yirgacheffe coffees in 28 countries and signed licensing agreements with more than 50 local firms, and more than 100 foreign coffee companies.

In the coming months, we expect to announce even more good news. One of America’s largest natural food and organic retailers has promised to increase its purchases of Ethiopian coffee five-fold in the next two years. We are negotiating with dozens more coffee companies, anxious to gain access to Ethiopia’s coveted beans.

To celebrate its coffee renaissance, Ethiopia has launched a distinctive brand (logo) that reflects the bright future ahead: a glowing sun rising in the sky with rays of light emanating from an Ethiopian coffee bean.

Ethiopia has demonstrated what can be achieved when a developing country wrests control of its resources and forges ties with international organizations that share its vision of self-sustainability and economic empowerment. We are not seeking quick-fix solutions, instead favouring long-term relationships with our partners that benefit all sides.

Every time someone around the world buys a cup of Ethiopian coffee, he or she is making a difference for the one in five Ethiopians who depend on coffee for their livelihood. Every sip rewards our farmers for their efforts, and helps build schools, improve housing and advance social services in Ethiopia.

 

 

By Solomon K. Mekonnen

 
 
 
   
   
   
 
 
 

 

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