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There
is nothing grander than when a nation bestows tribute on its
sons and daughters. In the most magnificent gesture of all,
it will drape a fallen hero's body in the Tricolour and bury
both together, the flag acting as the shroud. In this case,
days in mourning will be declared and observed: A solemn
homage by the nation to a life given selflessly.
Ethiopia is soaked in history, and a sense of honour. It
respects its enemy as much as its own heroes, granting ample
honorifics to all those deserving.
Institutions such as universities give honorary degrees to
those that have perhaps never set foot in lecture halls. The
newly-gowned recipients, with mortars askew, very much like
fish out of water, will nonetheless smile from shell-shocked
faces, surrounded as they are by people that they would
normally have nothing in common with. In the packed
auditorium, reeking of history and tradition, one can see in
the recipients the palpable sense of achievements fulfilled
- the highest peaks climbed and conquered - of having been
accepted in haloed circles for their own deeds.
Addis
Abeba is full of instances when it gives respect to its
people of history. In this way, the city is full of legacies
and honours inscribed in stone and mortar.
The
most obvious, and not only for being at the centre of the
city proper; is that of Emperor Menelik II. He is in full
imperial regalia, with the crown of emperors of Ethiopia on
his head. He sits on his favourite steed, shield and spear
in hand, always warlike, most of his life having been spent
fending off one enemy after another, not all of them from
outside the country.
The
horse is reared on its hind legs, signifying, as folklore
suggests, that he was a leader of men in battle, always at
the front, driving his forces into victorious conquests.
It took
more than 35 years to have some sort of memorial built in
his memory. The square named after Emperor Tewdros is found
halfway down Churchill Road. The square, named and so
designated at the time of the Emperor, never got anything
erected in the round-about.
The
military never liked memorials, and even went to great pains
to deface those that already existed. The Derg got an
Italian sculptor to 'amend' the Arat Kilo statue, erected to
remind future generations of the Italian occupation, and the
rigours of being occupied by foreign troops. The Derg
sandblasted scenes in the sculpture which they saw as
incorrect: A case of flogging a dead horse.
The
Sidist Kilo monument, dedicated to martyrs of Yekatit 12,
was a gift of the then Yugoslavia, whose President Broz Tito
was both a friend and an admirer of the Ethiopian people and
their Emperor. The two leaders had gone through similar
experiences in fighting off superior forces: The Yugoslavs
took on both Hitler and Stalin. They beat the first, and
held the second to a stand-off, whereupon Tito was allowed
to go his way, something the Kremlin did not allow his
neighbours in the Warsaw Pact to do.
The
Ethiopians, fended off Mussolini and his poison gas wielding
troops and aircraft for five years, and finally got rid of
the occupier - with help from some friends.
That
post-war Yugoslavia and Italy were not the best of friends
was neither here nor there. But Tito took advantage in any
case, and paid for the erection of an alabaster white marble
memorial to the fallen, following an attempted assassination
of the representative of the emperor of Rome, General
Grazzianni, and of the El Duce, Mussolini himself.
The one
edifice that tends to be forgotten is Mexico Square. For all
its strategic position, and now flanked by the headquarters
of the Federal Police, it is difficult to miss. And yet it
is taken very much for granted. It is a square, and a
round-about with a fountain at its centre, which has now
become a junction of major thoroughfares, around which there
is now, unfortunately, a 24-hour traffic gridlock. Another
underpass in the making, perhaps?
Mexico
Square is so named because of the stalwart support the
country gave to Ethiopia internationally, but especially
after the Emperor paid an official visit to that country. It
is therefore no surprise that Mexico should have been
Ethiopia's springboard to Latin America and beyond. Exchange
of ambassadors was started between the two countries
following the Second World War. When the Olympic Games were
held in Mexico City, Ethiopia fielded a strong athletic
team, as well as used the venue as a launch pad for its
cultural troupe, the first time they were to perform on an
international stage, and to much acclaim.
The
troupe, formed by artists from what is known today as the
National Theatre, wowed the crowds that flocked to see them.
They had never before seen an African show performed with
such self-confidence and professionalism, choreographed in
such a way that all regions of the country, with their
diverse songs and dances, were presented in a continuous
90-minute cabaret show.
But
before all that, a celebrated choreographer was especially
flown in by the International Olympic Committee to show the
Theatre how to present a show of international standard.
She, a Mexican, was so bowled over by the show that she
just cried, and said there was nothing she could teach
anybody about anything, let alone choreography. She
suggested that the theatre, instead, should teach her. It
was said that she took the next plane out, and back to
Mexico, much humbled by the experience.
Ethiopian
runners did not register, nor were they noticed by the
athletic world at this time. They were to make tremendous
impact in the next games, held in Rome and in the running of
the Marathon.
And then,
of course, there is Meskel Square, so named after the
September flower and the festival that is held there
annually. But it is more than just that. It is also a
religious festival: the finding of the True Cross, on which
Christians believe their Messiah was crucified. It is
believed that remnants of the Cross were found and brought
to Ethiopia by Queen Heleni in 327 A.D. The remnants are
still, it is said, in Gishen Mariam Church, in Wollo.
But
Meskel Square had a name change in 1977. It became known, to
the chagrin of all, as Revolution Square. The whole area was
defaced, and to top it all, a whole building - after those
that were living in it had been evicted - was literally cut
in half so that a reviewing stand could be built for the
ruling elite. It accommodated a special seat for Col.
Mengistu Hailemariam and his close leadership elite, as well
as having a soundproofed TV presenter booth, and an
especially built ramp to the building from the palace.
The
square itself could hold more than 300,000 people it was
said, but after all the tanks and all purpose-built, tracked
troop carriers and their missiles had passed the reviewing
stand, the tarmac was as if it had been plowed up by a giant
harrow.
In more
recent, innocent times, the only thing that could be said
that could possibly blemish the surface would be a huge
bonfire erected for the sole purpose of copying the method
used by Queen Heleni in trying to find the True Cross. It is
said that the smoke from the bonfire she lit rose and
drifted up and then down to the exact spot where it was
buried. Hence Meskel, or Cross, and from there, Meskel
Flower, or yellow African daisy' which is September's
flower. But put simply, September's glory.
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